Devon + Cornwall (Honeymoon)

Monday 4th July - Day 1 - Bath

We drove from Lincoln to Bath, which took just over 4hrs with a stop at Gloucester Services for lunch. At Bath we checked into a lovely boutique hotel (Bathen House) and then after a cuppa caught the bus into the city centre. Our first stop was the Roman Baths, which was a really great museum, they used a mixture of traditional information panels but also 3D projections of people to show how each of the rooms were used. We then had a walk around city centre before heading to dinner at Sally Lunns (which is one of the oldest houses in Bath, an Eating house that dates back to 1680). Alan had a mushroom trencher and I had the veggie pie, both were delicious. Alan followed this with a bread pudding (made with the traditional Sally Lunn buns) and I had an apricot brownie. We then took a post dinner stroll past the Circus, Royal Crescent and through the Royal Park and Botanical gardens before heading back to hotel.

Tuesday 5th July - Day 2 – Bath – Chedder Gorge – Exmoor National Park

Alan went for a run into the city while I had a lie in and then packed. We had a fabulous breakfast at the hotel. Left around 10am. First stop was to Chew Valley Lake. Route then took us through Cheddar Gorge which is spectacular. We stopped at several places along it’s length and saw some lovely plants. Eventually after parking we had a walk through Cheddar looking for somewhere for lunch (but unfortunately we were not lucky so we popped to a nearby supermarket for bread and cheese) and drove onto Cheddar Reservoir for lunch. Our next stop was supposed to be Dulverton. Heading there was a massive traffic jam, so after a quick decision we made a detour through the Somerset levels which was lovely. From there we got on M5 to Tiverton and headed through Exmoor National Park. The roads were narrow and steep (good practice for later in Devon/ Cornwall). Eventually we made it to the Tarr Steps an ancient bridge crossing River Exe. Woods surrounding it are Ancient Woodland that is designated a SSSI and NNR. It was really hot, but fortunately there was an ice cream seller (this was the first of many on our trip). Finally we headed onto top of Exmoor driving across the moorland seeing Exmoor ponies. From there we headed to the coast and the campsite (Lynmouth Holiday Retreat). The campsite was lovely, great facilities and an amazing pitch overlooking Bristol Channel and Wales in distance. Cooked filled pasta with veggies then headed to pub for pint (Alan) and half for me.

Wednesday 6th July - Day 3 – Lynton, Lynmouth, Porlock and Minehead

Alan got up for a run and we that walking down to Lynton/ Lynmouth from the campsite was too steep. Hairpin bends and 1 in 25 slope made the journey fun! We parked in Lynton and had a walk through town catching the vernacular railway down to Lynmouth. In Lynmouth we walked around the shops, the harbour and gorge before grabbing a Devon Cream Tea (although we did have it the Cornish way). We then picked up a couple of Cornish pasties, one spicy veg and one cauliflower, chickpea and onion. After catching the railway back to Lynton we returned to the van. After a SatNav special (with several detours) we drove along the coast stopping on route to eat the pasties at the National Trust Brendon (with lovely cliff-top views). Then on to Porlock and Minehead for a quick walk about before heading back across Exmoor to the campsite (where we were staying for the 2nd night). We made veggie burgers, grilled halloumi and veggies in the van.

Thursday 7th July - Day 4 – Braunton Burrows

Leaving Lynton we headed to Braunton Burrows, where we met Rupert the Reserve Manager who works on the Dynamic Dunes project (we met at a coffee shop where we had a quick cappuccino). Then we transferred into Rupert’s truck and had a guided tour of the dunes. Highlights were Dark Green Winged Fritillary, lots of Marsh Helleborine, Pyramid Orchid and Round-headed Club Rush. Took lots of photos. After a quick lunch we headed on for the next stage of our journey heading to Bude. At Bude we had a walk around the town and down to the water, it had a lovely beach, with a tidal swimming pool. We had an ice cream saying we should go back. Onto Boscastle where we had our next campsite (Trebala Farm) which was more basic but had great views over the coast and was all very clean. We cooked mushroom burgers with a cucumber and tomato salad.

Friday 8th July - Day 5 – Boscastle, Tintagal, Port Issac, Port Gaverne, Padstow

We had an early start, so decided to drive the van down to Boscastle (missing the mid-morning rush of tourists). Arriving we walked down to the harbour and sat for half an hour taking in the views – it was a beautiful morning, with a deep blue sky and turquoise waters. We walked to a cafe where we had a coffee and croissant, before taking a look around a local art galley. Then it was back to the van for a drive to Tintagel. After parking, we popped into a National Trust historic post-office, before walking down to the coast path taking in views of the famous Tintagel castle, we continued to walk along the coast path and then back inland. The next stop was Port Issac which was so busy, we had parked in the outer town car park and had a long trek to the harbour, after a short stop we decided to walk on to Port Gaverne, which was just around the corner. We decided both were too busy for us, so we made the return walk back up the hill to the van. We then drove onto Padstow, where we were staying in a busy (but nice) campsite (DennisCove) just outside the main town. We walked a short distance along the coast path towards town, reaching our destination of Rick Steins Fish & Chip shop where I had Haddock and Chips and Alan had a Chickpea Curry and Chips – we ate them sat on the harbour walls. Both were lovely (although Alan would have liked a bigger portion). We spent a little while walking around the town, before having ice cream and a drink and then heading back to the campsite.

Saturday 9th July - Day 6 – Padstow, Harlyn Beach, Carnewas at Bedruthan, Newquay and Porthtowan

Leaving Padstow we headed further down the coast, stopping by accident at Harlyn Beach. It was packed, but had a lovely atmosphere and we decided to hire a paddleboard for a couple of hours. The water was fresh, but it was a hot day so it was really lovely (even if I spent most of the time in the water). We decided sitting/ kneeling on the board was the best option! After having lunch at one of the beach cafes (a cheese toasty) our parking was running out so we decided to continue on our journey. A quick look at the National Trust app and we took another unplanned stop – this time taking a walk along the coast path at Carnewas at Bedruthan – this section of the coast has dramatic steep cliffs with views over huge rock stacks. We had another cream tea at the cafe on the top (to check whether Devon/ Cornwall was best) – spotting a Common Lizard in the dry stone wall; before heading onto Newquay. Being late in the day and with bad traffic we decided not to stop in Newquay but to continue onto our campsite at Porthtowan (Porthtowan Tourist Park). This was a more commercial campsite with amazing facilities including a laundry room, so we did a few chores of sorting the van and preparing for the next part of our holiday.

Sunday 10th July - Day 7 – Porthtowan, Godrevy and Gwithian

Staying just a couple of miles outside Porthtowan meant we arrived early to the beach. After hiring a surf board and body board (I chicken out with a full surf board) we headed for the water. We had a fun couple of hours with both. Alan was too heavy/ long for the body board but I had fun jumping the waves. Finally I built up courage to try the surf board – first go I managed to get on (lying down I hasten to add) and hit a great wave to take me to the shore. Very pleased with myself I had a second, third and forth go – each time being hit by a wave and thrown – I felt like a drowned rat so decided enough was enough and I headed back to the beach. About 15 mins before the end of hire I had another go – this time supervised by the now proficient Alan, it went far better. After leaving Porthtowan we headed further along the coast stopping for a walk at Godrevy Point (another National Trust piece of stunning coast) with views over Godrevy Lighthouse and to Gwithian Beach which was very busy. Our final stop was our campsite just outside Gwithian Towans (The Old Stables Campsite) – this was one of the cheapest campsites on our trip but again lovely facilities.

Monday 11th July - Day 8 – St. Ives

Stopped at Haile M&S and got a few essentials incl. 2 packets of Colin the Catterpillers and lunch. Drove to St. Ives and parked outside Boswanna our B&B as we were too early for check-in, from here we caught a bus into St Ives. St. Ives was very busy, but we had a lovely walk around the town. Alan bought a pasty and a bun to supplement his M&S lunch, as well as having an ice cream (Millionaires shortbread). We had pre-booked Tate Modern before arriving, but also purchased boat trip tickets. The visit to Tate Modern was really good (although not as much contents as the London one). We decided to go onto the Barbara Hepworth sculpture garden which was lovely. I loved seeing her workshop as well as large sculptures in garden. After which we had an hour before our coastal boat trip which headed about 4miles down the coast to seal island where Grey Seals hang out. We also saw a pod of dolphins. Typically when we got back to harbour there was a tame, rehabilitated seal just hanging about harbour who popped up right by the boat. After disembarking we decided we would get an early dinner. All restaurants were booked up, so we grabbed a pizza from a wood fired pizza van by the harbour. I lost a piece to a sea gull who must have burnt its beak!. After relocating we ate our veggie and margarita pizza in peace. Followed by ice cream mine orange crunch, Alan’s 2nd Millionaire shortbread of the day. We walked back to accommodation along the coast path taking in the views and tourists, before and checking in. The B&B was fabulous with an amazing setup.

Tuesday 12th July - Day 9 – St. Michaels Mount

So on leaving Boswanna B&B we headed to St Michael’s Mount. After a quick decision we walked across the causeway to the island. We used our NT membership card to access the grounds, with great views over bay. Then had a quick lunch on beach before continuing our journey onto Kynance Cove. Again used NT membership for free parking. We walked down to the beach but the tide was in, and much of cove was under water, and the beach was packed. We decided to have a swim as it was really hot. After that we had a cream tea with scone and jam. Before walking up the cliff to look at the plants. Part of the Lizard NNR. Amazing plants and lots of butterflies incl Small Pearl Bordered Fritillary. Then we walked back to van to find it had been hit leaving a couple of small dents! On leaving Kynance we headed to our campsite (Nampara) which was somewhat disappointing after all the amazing sites we had stayed in – typically we were supposed to stay 2 nights. While clean there was a lack of any care with the facilities and by the management. The highlight was the showers in the garden shed, which had a small piece of shower curtain over the window that did not even fit so all passers by could have a good look in! We made a Chinese and went to bed early.

Wednesday 13th July - Day 10 – Kennack Sands, Lizard Village, Housel Bay, Coverack

After the rather poor choice of campsite we decided to move rather than stay another day. So we packed up van. We headed first to Kennack Sands for a coffee and a quick walk around. Then back in the van driving on to Lizard village. We parked in centre of the village, grabbed a pasty each and walked along the coast to Housel Bay passing the Lloyds Signal Station, Marconi’s wireless listening station (where we had a very knowledgable NT guide give us all the history of the place), before having a paddle in Housel Bay Cove, and eating lunch. After which we continued along coast path past the Devils Frying Pan, then on to the Lizard Point where we saw Grey Seals had an ice cream and bought a coastal print before heading further along coast to a footpath that headed back to village. After that we drove onwards towards Coverack where we had managed to find an alternative campsite. On route we stopped at Goon Hilly Downs part of the Lizard NNR. We also briefly stopped at Coverack (although road works meant the village was a bit awkward to get around) before checking into lovely campsite. Feeling far more settled I made a big veggie curry with naan bread, rice and mango chutney.

Thursday 14th July - Day 11 – Trelissack Gardens, Carne Beach, St. Austell and Charlestown

We headed from Coverack towards St Austell. Stopping on route at Trelissack Gardens (another NT property) which overlooked the River Fal and the estuary. We decided to take the chain ferry known as King Harry Ferry across the channel – their were beautiful views along river. A bit nerve racking getting on / off with the van but it all went well. On the other side we drove through St. Maew then onto Carne Beach where we had a swim and ice cream. After drying off, we headed to St Austell to check into our guest house (The Chapel Inn Guest House). For dinner, the owner suggested we head to Charlestown. We found it to be very busy, but managed to get a table at one of the pubs. Alan had a veggie burger and I had crispy halloumi, both were very nice. We had a walk around harbour which was used for film sets and Poldark so a bit touristy and setout like a theme park. After which we headed to Tesco’s for a top up of snacks for Eden. Then back to the guest house.

Friday 15th July - Day 12 – The Eden Project

A short drive from the Chapel Inn Guest House to the Eden Project meant we arrived just before 9:45. We were given a great parking spot right near entrance. Had a lovely time exploring. Alan had a really good time and I enjoyed my 5th visit. Alan made it to the observation platform at the top and I managed to cross the rope bridge. The Mediterranean biome has become really established, and the tropical biome is as spectacular as normal. The outside gardens were lovely. For lunch we had shared a pizza with roasted beetroot sauce, goats cheese, spinach and red onions. On leaving we bought a T-shirt each. We then drove to Dartmoor National Park to a campsite just near Tavistock called Hartford Bridge. I was not feeling great so had a sleep. On arrival the site was very clean and well organised, with our pitch right up by the river; but we ended up with noisy neighbours who Alan had to tell to shut up at 1am. 

Saturday 16th July - Day 13 – Dartmoor National Park to Malvern

After a final noisy night we packed up (picking up croissants from the campsite shop) we headed across Dartmoor NP. We stopped at a view point and walked up Cor Tor - great views all around. Then we continued onto Exeter where we stopped at IKEA and purchased a few things for house and van, also having a coffee and cake. Once on M5 we had a slight detour finding a place for lunch within Exmoor NP before continuing north. We arrived at my parents in Malvern mid-afternoon, where we sorted the van, did a clothes wash; before heading out a local pub to celebrate my parents 50th Wedding Anniversary – with my sister, her husband and nieces. This was followed by delicious lemon drizzle cake sat in my parents garden.

Sunday 17th July – Day 14 – Homeward bound

Alan went for a morning run, while I relaxed a little, then it was a case of packing up the van, before popping over to see my sisters house renovations. The journey back to Potterhanworth, Lincolnshire was uneventful.